Tag Archives: surfing

December 16, 2014

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is Julian and his girlfriend. I know they weren’t surfing but they were skating down the street in Venice holding hands and I asked them to stand in for a quick portrait._MG_4902 _MG_4897

 

I started shooting these portraits a few weeks ago. It didn’t start out as a planned project but everyone seems to be responding well to the images so I’ll see where it goes. When I’m surfing with my boys, I am usually the first one out of the water and most definitely the first one dressed. I’m usually waiting around while they get out of the water and watching them struggle to get out of their wetsuits. It’s pretty funny watching them hopping up and down in the parking lot or rolling around in the backseat in various states of undress. I usually have a camera with me and there’s always some grip stuff in the trunk of my Volvo wagon so one morning I clamped this small painted backdrop to the tailgate and took a few portraits while waiting.

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December 6, 2014

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I started shooting these portraits a few weeks ago. It didn’t start out as a planned project but everyone seems to be responding well to the images so I’ll see where it goes. When I’m surfing with my boys, I am usually the first one out of the water and most definitely the first one dressed. I’m usually waiting around while they get out of the water and watching them struggle to get out of their wetsuits. It’s pretty funny watching them hopping up and down in the parking lot or rolling around in the backseat in various states of undress. I usually have a camera with me and there’s always some grip stuff in the trunk of my Volvo wagon so one morning I clamped this small painted backdrop to the tailgate and took a few portraits while waiting.

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December 1, 2014

 

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I started shooting these portraits a few weeks ago. It didn’t start out as a planned project but everyone seems to be responding well to the images so I’ll see where it goes. When I’m surfing with my boys, I am usually the first one out of the water and most definitely the first one dressed. I’m usually waiting around while they get out of the water and watching them struggle to get out of their wetsuits. It’s pretty funny watching them hopping up and down in the parking lot or rolling around in the backseat in various states of undress. I usually have a camera with me and there’s always some grip stuff in the trunk of my Volvo wagon so one morning I clamped this small painted backdrop to the tailgate and took a few portraits while waiting.

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November 17, 2014

ollie

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This is what we do on the weekend when the water is warm and the sun is out.

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November 11, 2014

 

 

 

 

 

 

No school, it’s Veterans Day. It’s a cloudy, late morning at Bay Street. Ollie and Simon are in full wetsuits but I still am in my trunks. I’m keeping track of my boys while sitting on my board in the warm water. Ollie is out next to me complaining that he keeps on falling. I tell him, ” Slow it down. These are small waves and you’re trying to do too much on them. You need to listen to the waves.” School has been like that too for him, rushing through math and english tests making silly mistakes.

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Simon is surfing the inside bobbing up and down in the white water. When I take a wave in he yells at me how many waves he’s caught while holding up the same amount with his fingers. He asks me, “How many waves have you caught?” I answer, “I’m not counting.”

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His teeth are chattering and I tell him I’m going to catch one last wave. I paddle back out to Ollie who is still battling the 1′- 2′ waves with overhead aggression. I tell him Simon and I are going in but you can stay as long as you like. Simon and I shower off and go back to the car. I takes Simon forever to get his wetsuit off so I grab my camera and walk back to the sand and take a few photos of Ollie.

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I think of where my boys are. Sam, in Iowa gearing up for the winter to come, Henry is at UCLA playing tennis, Theo is probably just getting up, Simon is still struggling to get his wetsuit off and Ollie is catching a wave in. That’s it- all present and accounted for. It’s a good thing.

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October 23, 2014

I haven’t posted much of anything since that big swell back in September.  It’s not that I haven’t been doing anything or taking pictures. Sometimes it’s just too hard to make sense of what is going on around me. Sometimes it’s too hard to understand the places I’ve been. This was one of those times.

I can’t remember 5 straight days of waves so consistent and so big. I usually go early in the morning when it’s not crowded in the water and the sand is cold and the parking lots haven’t filled up with beach goers. This swell was different. It was so crowded at all times and there was so much stuff going on around me that I just didn’t care. I heard the current was super strong but I didn’t notice anything special as I paddled my board into the line up. And then, on a wave, the crowds and some of your worries seemed to fade away almost disappear for a few seconds as you speed by people, riding life’s liquid fabric on a foam board encased in and fiberglass.

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August 28, 2014

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August 17, 2014

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It’s mid August already. Ollie and I are padding out on the north side of the Venice Pier. It’s early morning and there’s a marine layer that unsaturates the surroundings and gives them a black and white quality. Neither of us are wearing a wetsuit, but with school starting next week there’s an implied touch of coolness in the water. The waves are small and fun. Sitting on my board, it’s easy to make sense of where I am using the pier, the shore and the horizon as landmarks. I’m locked into these physical coordinates and yet I’m floating in an ocean. I close my eyes. The Velvet Underground song “Foggy Notion” plays through my mind, the non rhyming of words and imagery making sense. Why Calamine lotion? Who is Sally May? I think about palindromes and how their crazy logic works but how life isn’t that easy. What sets me adrift is not knowing what to do as a parent. Knowing that by doing the right thing may not always be the easiest decision to make. Knowing that what someone wants is not what someone needs. I open my eyes, Ollie catches a left and I watch him from behind. I loose sight of him for an instant as the water engulfs him but he pops into sight as he makes the section. He paddles back out with a big smile on his face. He asks me if I saw him make that wave. I say, “yeah, let’s do it again!”

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July 23, 2014

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Junior Lifeguard surf trip day with Ollie and at Nicolas Canyon (aka as Zeros). Here’s Ollie’s goofy foot  instructor Lance launching the paddle board on a fun waist high wave.

 

 

 

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February 26, 2014

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