There’s been great waves lately with el nino fueled swells hitting our beaches week after week. But, with every time I paddle out there’s a sense of loss to the motions I’m going through. That first step into the cold water is not numbing but a wake up call- a telling finite feeling that makes me sad. Surfing three days in a row used to make me feel strong and vitale. Now the repetition of paddling and standing up on my board seems to aggravate or bring to life some new unexplored pain in my shoulder, back or neck.
In the back of my house I adjust, and take one of the longboards instead of a shorter one, because no matter what, after you’ve caught a wave till there’s no wave left, and you paddle back to the line- up with that stupid smile on your you face, and sit on your board looking at the horizon waiting for the next set, you know you’ve pressed a reset button of sorts that makes it all worth it and say to yourself, “One more wave.”