When most of the country is experiencing bitter cold we’ve got overhead waves, warm water and temperatures hitting 80 degrees. This is Noah. When I was shooting his portrait at Topanga, I got a laugh out of him by apologizing for dropping in on him. He said, “That’s ok, I snaked you a few times too.” It’s all good.
I started shooting these portraits a few months ago. It didn’t start out as a planned project but everyone seems to be responding well to the images so I’ll see where it goes. When I’m surfing with my boys, I am usually the first one out of the water and most definitely the first one dressed. I’m usually waiting around while they get out of the water and watching them struggle to get out of their wetsuits. It’s pretty funny watching them hopping up and down in the parking lot or rolling around in the backseat in various states of undress. I usually have a camera with me and there’s always some grip stuff in the trunk of my Volvo wagon so one morning I clamped this small painted backdrop to the tailgate and took a few portraits while waiting.